Sunday, October 30, 2011

Chic Getaway in the Swiss Alps

For almost 150 years, the Swiss Alps have been a winter paradise for the international elite. Since December 1864, when a group of aristocratic British visitors checked in for the inaugural winter season, The Kulm Hotel has been synonymous with pleasure and privilege — a place with a dazzling social calendar of polo and horseracing on the frozen lake, where upper-crust Italian and British families rub shoulders with oligarchs and tycoons.

Since its inauguration in 1896, the Badrutt's Palace Hotel has been associated with grandeur, the epitome of exquisite luxury, and discreet, yet ever-present splendor. For guests looking for the ultimate mountain vacation experience, the hotel has traditionally been "the place to be."

Holidaymakers in sun loungers on the slopes in Gstaad, Switzerland, March 1961

Verbier, Switzerland, February 1964

Skiers outside the Chalet Costi in Zermatt, 1968

American political novelist William F. Buckley Jr. takes a break from skiing near Gstaad with Canadian-born economist John Kenneth Galbraith


Manuela Boraomanero and Emanuela Beghelli holiday,
March 1976

A signpost indicating various ski slopes and toboggan tracks in
the resort of St Moritz, Switzerland, March 1963

American socialite and fashion writer Nan Kempner at a mountain
ski resort, December 1960

The Palace Hotel in Gstaad, 1961

Skiers at the Corviglia Ski Club in St Moritz, Switzerland,
March 1963

A view of the street and Rialto Hotel in Gstaad, Switzerland, 1961

Friday, October 28, 2011

The Muse Extraordinaire of the 20s: Nancy Cunard

The mere mention of Cunard Cruise Ships conjures up images of floating palaces where the affluent dance the night away in awe-inspiring splendor. However, disaster lurks in their past: the Lusitania, one of Cunard's luxury liners, was sunk by a German U-boat, prompting America's entry into World War I. Another figure plaguing the line is the great-granddaughter of the line's founder, Samuel Cunard.

Nancy Clara Cunard was the only child of Sir Bache Cunard and Maud, his American heiress wife, who took the name Emerald. The Baronet was mostly keen on foxhunting, fishing, and horseback riding, while his lady was more concerned with climbing the social ladder. Emerald supported Wallis Simpson in the hopes of becoming a lady-in-waiting when her fellow American became queen, in order to bolster her prestige.

Nancy Cunard in 1925, photographed by Man Ray

Nancy in Harlem, New York, with two male companions,
circa 1925

Emerald's dowry of two million dollars (about five hundred million dollars nowadays) was primarily used to purchase the title of lady, but the pair split in 1911 despite the high-end housing market. Emerald, despite her pride in her beautiful daughter, whom an admirer later described as "lovely enough to seduce a saint," sent Nancy to prestigious boarding schools in Britain, France, and Germany. Nancy gained fluency in French, Spanish, Italian, and German as a result of her education.

The non - conventional heiress chose the traditional path of escape: marriage to Sydney Fairbairn, a soldier on leave from the battlefield back injury. Sydney held the dual qualifications of physical attractiveness (which pleased Nancy) and a lack of a title (which displeased Lady Cunard). The media took a hiatus from covering the World War in November 1916 to cover the wedding of the heiress of two incredibly wealthy parents. The union did not last, and Nancy referred to it as "a horrible phase" during its brief existence. Nancy fell in love with yet another soldier, Peter Broughton-Adderley, after Sydney returned to the front, and she was heartbroken when he died in the war.

Nancy, lost, looked for a new identity, and she became a bohemian flapper, trimming her long blonde hair into a haircut with pasted kiss curls on her cheeks, wearing shorter skirts, and sporting a long cigarette holder. Nancy, unlike many other Jazz Age heroines, despised her wealthy background. She joined her Lost Generation comrades in France the next year. Her well-known name, beauty, and heiress position gave her access to the avant-garde Dadaist and Surrealist groups. Nonetheless, she grew dissatisfied with the fleeting fame of becoming the decade's "It Girl." To subdue her demons, Nancy resorted to her old standbys: sex and booze.

Nancy at the Hours Press, her publishing house at 15 Rue Guénégaud, in Paris, 1930

Nancy Cunard was looking for a way to express herself via style. Her signature accessories were vintage ivory and onyx bangles that snaked up both of her delicate arms from wrist to elbow, and she donned turbans with veil over her eyes. Man Ray immortalized her in a photograph, while Brancusi sculpted her figure.

Cunard's life changed forever when she met Henry Crowder, a black jazz musician from Washington, at a Venice hotel. She dispatched a gondola to bring him to her palazzo later that night. Despite the fact that he was from another world and the son of a poor Georgia family, he talked to her soul and was entranced.

They returned to Paris, where they were inseparable because they were uncomfortable with the looks they received from the Fascists. Unlike his predecessors, Henry's ability to withstand her emotional and physical outbursts contributed to his long-term viability. When the New York writer Janet Flanner ran into Henry and asked about his bruises, he replied, "Just bracelet work."

The media, on the other hand, bared its fangs and portrayed Nancy as a depraved English aristocrat with a penchant for black men, prompting a flood of hate mail, including one from the Ku Klux Klan. Their disparate backgrounds, public condemnation, and Nancy's past eventually drove them apart, and she returned to Paris alone.

Nancy aboard the Spanish liner Marques de Comillas in New
York, United States on 25th July 1941

Nancy and Henry Crowder in the Hours Press, Paris, 1930

Nancy wore progressive issues on her bangle-adorned sleeve in the 1930s, the most prominent of which was a campaign against fascism. She published articles denouncing Mussolini's invasion of Ethiopia as well as Franco's coup. She traveled to Barcelona to gain firsthand knowledge of Spain's civil war. The heiress raised awareness of the issue of immigrants fleeing to France by opening a shelter. Her heroic efforts on behalf of the impoverished had taken their toll by the late 1930s, and she had become dangerously thin rather than gracefully thin. Cunard asked for donations for "the bombed-out inhabitants of Barcelona" on the Parisian streets where she had previously walked in splendor.

After a long booze-fueled binge in London in 1960, the British authorities committed her to a mental institution. Cunard spent the next five years of her life on the streets, surviving primarily on liquor and cigarettes while shouting against racism. An acquaintance said she "looked thinner than a Buchenwald corpse" in Paris in 1965, shortly after her sixty-ninth birthday; she weighed sixty-five pounds.

“All that remains is a burning sense of indignation,” read her epitaph, which could have been taken from one of her own newspaper articles. Her death was described as "the sad, lonely farewell to a toast to the Twenties" by the Evening Standard.

Nancy photographed by Henri Cartier-Bresson, 1956

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Chateau Life: Elegance in the French Countryside

Besides the well-known historic chateaux of Chaumont, Chenonceaux, Azay-le-Rideau, Maintenon, Dampierre, Josselin, Valencay, and scores of others, there are quantities of small Louis XV chateaux and manoirs, half-hidden in a corner of a forest, which the stranger never sees. They are quite charming, built of red brick with white copings, with stiff old-fashioned gardens, and trees cut into all sorts of fantastic shapes. Sometimes the parish church touches the castle on one side, and there is a private entrance for the seigneurs. The interior arrangements in some of the old ones leave much to be desired in the way of comfort and modern improvements,—lighting very bad, neither gas nor electricity and I should think no baths anywhere, hardly a tub. On the banks of the Seine and the Loire, near the great forests, in all the departments near Paris there are quantities of chateaux—some just on the border of the highroad, separated from it by high iron gates, through which one sees long winding alleys with stone benches and vases with red geraniums planted in them, a sun-dial and stiff formal rows of trees—some less pretentious with merely an ordinary wooden gate, generally open, and always flowers of the simplest kind, geraniums, sunflowers, pinks, dahlias, and chrysanthemums —what we call a jardin de cure, (curate's garden)—but in great abundance. With very rare exceptions the lawns are not well kept—one never sees in this country the smooth green turf that one does in England.

 Phillipe, Duc De Magenta et Marquis De MacMahon outside Chateau Sully in Autun with his fiancee Amelie Drummond

Some of the old chateaux are very stately—sometimes one enters by a large quadrangle, quite surrounded by low arcades covered with ivy, a fountain and good-sized basin in the middle of the courtyard, and a big clock over the door—sometimes they stand in a moat, one goes over a drawbridge with massive doors, studded with iron nails and strong iron bolts and chains which defend the entrance, making one think of old feudal days, when might was right, and if a man wanted his neighbours' property, he simply took it. Even some of the smaller chateaux have moats. I think they are more picturesque than comfortable—an ivy-covered house with a moat around it is a nest for mosquitoes and insects of all kinds, and I fancy the damp from the water must finish by pervading the house. French people of all classes love the country and a garden with bright flowers, and if the poorer ones can combine a rabbit hutch with the flowers they are quite happy.

— Excerpt from "My First Years As A Frenchwoman, 1876-1879", by Mary King Waddington

Guests around the pool at the Chateau St. Jean, owned by Rosemarie Kanzler Marcie Riviere, Cap Ferrat, France, September 1973

An outdoor luncheon by the swimming pool of the Chateau
Saint-Martin on the Cote d'Azur, France, 1986

Breakfast on the verandah of the Chateau Saint-Martin on the Cote d’Azur, France, 1986

Madame de la Haye-Jousselin on her horse at the gates of her chateau in Normandy, 1957

Monday, October 24, 2011

The Shakespeare Ball, 1966

The Public Theater's free Shakespeare plays draw large crowds to the Delacorte Theater and its adjacent Great Lawn in Central Park on select summer evenings. The two-month-long festival, once known as the New York Shakespeare Festival, is now simply known as Shakespeare in the Park. Serving as a fundraiser for the festival, the Shakespeare Ball, held in 1966 at the notorious Plaza Hotel, was an occasion for the city's elite to gather and celebrate in costumes inspired by the playwright's works.

Wearing Shakespearean-styled gowns, actress Pamela Tiffin and Gloria Steinem frolic at Bard's benefit ball, June 13, 1966. Miss Tiffin is dressed as Kate, of Taming of the Shrew, and Miss Steinem is garbed as Lady MacBeth

Shirlee Fonda, wearing a gown by Frederic Forquet inspired by
Virgilia in Coriolanus, and Susan Stein wearing a gown
designed by Donald Brooks, inspired by Ophelia in Hamlet, at
the Shakespeare Ball at the Plaza Hotel

Mrs. Montague Hackett wearing a Pucci-designed gown inspired
by Hermione in A Winter's Tale at the Shakespeare Ball

Actress Lee Remick wearing a gown by Rouben Ter-Arutunian
inspired by Hippolyte in A Midsummer Night's Dream at
the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Amanda Burden wearing a gown by costume designer
Theoni V. Aldridge inspired by Rosaline in Love's Labors Lost
at the Shakespeare Ball 

Socialite Robin Butler wearing a Christian Dior gown inspired
by Helen of Troy in Troilus and Cressida at the Shakespeare Ball

Actress Susan Kohmer wearing a gown designed by her husband,
John Weitz, inspired by Hamlet, at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite model Contessa Christina Paolozzi Bellin wearing a
gown by John Kloss inspired by Doll Tearsheet, Henry IV,
Part 2 at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Judith Peabody wearing a gown by Bob Bugnand
inspired by Marina in Pericles at the Shakespeare Ball

Glamour magazine editor Ellin Sadowsky Saltzman wearing
a gown by Shannon Rodgers inspired by Octavia in Antony
and Cleopatra at the Shakespeare Ball

Photographer Bert Stern dancing with his wife, ballet dancer
Allegra Kent, who is wearing a gown by Geoffrey Beane
inspired by Cassandra in Troilus and Cressida
at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Mrs. Harry Theodorocopoulos wearing a gown by
John Moore inspired by Puck in A Midsummer Night's Dream
at the Shakespeare Ball

Actress and radio commentator Katharine Balfour wearing
a gown by Pauline Trigere inspired by Calpurnia in Julius
Caesar at the Shakespeare Ball

Baroness Gottfried von Meyern-Hohenberg, wearing a Chester
Weinberg gown inspired by Katherine of France, Henry V,
at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Chessy Rayner wearing a gown by Bill Blass inspired
by Titania in A Midsummer Night's Dream at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Minnie Cushing wearing a gown by Oscar De La
Renta inspired by Desdemona in Othello at the Shakespeare Ball

Socialite Baby Jane Jolzer wearing a gown by Simonetta inspired
by Ariel in The Tempest, and fashion model China Machado
wearing an Yves St. Laurent gown inspired by Cleopatra in
Antony and Cleopatra at the Shakespeare Ball

The Brawling Mdivanis: A Glamourous and Tragic Family Tale

The Mdivanis—whose name was claimed to be derived from the Persian phrase for "sitting on a divan," which was an apt description of their goals—weren't typical immigrant aspirers. They were born in Georgia, a Russian state where the family claimed to be royalty, referring to themselves as princes and princesses. Their father, Zakhari, a military commander, was Czar Nicholas II's aide-de-camp, while their mother, a Pole, became one of Rasputin's confidantes. 

After the Soviet invasion of Georgia in 1921, the five siblings escaped to Paris and became known as the "Marrying Mdivanis," since they all married into fame and fortune, which they skillfully drained. "An awful group of vulgar, selfish, and good-for-nothing beggars whose only skill is to leech off wealthy people," they were once described.

Nina Mdivani

Nina Mdivani and Denis Conan Doyle

Nina and Denis posing for a photograph, 1936

Nina Mdivani (1901–1987) was married to Stanford professor and lawyer Charles Henry Huberich from 15 July 1925 until their divorce on 19 May 1936, and then wedded Denis Conan Doyle, the son of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the creator of Sherlock Holmes, on August 18, 1936. Following Denis's death on March 9, 1955, she married Anthony Harwood, Denis Conan Doyle's secretary.

Serge Mdivani

Serge Mdivani and his first wife, Polish actress Pola Negri

Serge and his third and last wife, Louise Astor Van Alen, in 1936,
a year before her tragic death

Serge Mdivani (1903–1936) moved to Massachusetts with his brother David in 1921, with the help of Marshall Crane of the Crane Currency paper empire. By 1923, the brothers had left and found work in Edward L. Doheny's Oklahoma oil fields. Serge then relocated to Los Angeles, met and married actress Pola Negri in 1927, but when she lost her fortune in the 1929 Stock Market Crash, he abandoned her and married opera singer Mary McCormic, who divorced him in a high-profile trial. In 1936, he married his ex-sister-in-law, Louise Astor Van Alen Mdivani, but she died later that year in a polo accident. He was laid to rest in St. Columba's Episcopal Chapel in Middletown, Rhode Island.

David Mdivani

David Mdivani and Mae Murray, dubbed "The Girl with
the Bee-Stung Lips"

David and Mae on their wedding day, 1926

David Mdivani (1904–1984) was the first of his siblings to marry "well". Marshall Crane helped him and his brother Serge immigrate to the United States. When the two brothers fell out of favor with Crane, they relocated to New York, where David worked for a radio repair shop owned by a fellow Georgian refuge on Vesey Street. 
The brothers moved to Oklahoma, where David and Serge worked in the Edward L. Doheny oil fields for $25 per week until 1926, just months before David married actress Mae Murray; they had a son, Koran David. She divorced him in 1933 after he bankrupted her, and they engaged in a bitter custody battle over their child. He also had a relationship with Arletty, a French actress. In 1944, David married Virginia Sinclair (daughter of Harry Ford Sinclair), a Sinclair Oil heiress, and they had a son, Michael.

Alexis Mdivani

Wedding of heiress Barbara Hutton with Alexis Mdivani, Paris,
June 20th 1933

Alexis and Barbara after their wedding, 1933

Alexis Mdivani (1905–1935) married Louise Astor Van Alen (an Astor family member) in 1931, but divorced her in order to marry Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton, one of the world's wealthiest women at the time. He was killed in a vehicle accident in Albons, Catalonia (Spain), while traveling with Baroness Maud Thyssen, a beautiful, married German woman of twenty-three years.

Isabelle Mdivani

Isabelle with ballet dancer Serge Lifar, posing for a sculpture

Isabelle and fashion designer Coco Chanel on a boat, circa 1935

Nicknamed Roussie or Roussy, Isabelle Roussadana Mdivani (1906–1938) was a sculptor who married Josep Maria Sert, a Spanish painter, in 1928, succeeding the legendary Misia Sert as his wife, but died in 1938.

Friday, October 21, 2011

The Doyenne of French Aristocracy: Baroness Marie-Hélène de Rothschild

Marie-Hélène Naila, Baroness Stephanie Josina van Zuylen van Nyevelt van de Haar was born in New York City in 1927 to a Syrian immigrant mother and a diplomat and merchant of Jewish-Dutch origin father. She moved to Paris after graduating from Marymount College in New York and married Count François de Nicolay, a horsebreeder in the Sarthe region, with whom she had one son, Philippe.

Baron Guy de Rothschild was also married at the time she met him — to another baroness who happened to be a distant cousin — but they tied the knot in a civil wedding in New York in 1957, six years after they first met. This was the first time a head member of the Rothschild family married a non-Jewish woman. Guy was pressured to quit as president of the French Jewish community. Because Marie-Hélène was Catholic, she needed a papal dispensation to terminate her first marriage and remarry outside of the Catholic faith.

Guy and Marie-Hélène arriving to see a Marlene Dietrich show at the
Espace Cardin, Paris, circa 1973

Her husband and his sisters, Jacqueline and Bethsabée, were raised at the Château de Ferrières, a country estate outside of Paris. The château was taken over by the Germans during France's occupation during World War II and remained closed until 1959, when the newlywed Rothschilds decided to reopen it. At great soirées, Marie-Hélène was in charge of remodeling the massive château, making it a venue where European nobility mixed with singers, artists, fashion designers, and Hollywood movie stars. In 1973, she pulled together five French couturiers and five American designers for a spectacular and innovative theme gala and charity fundraising she arranged in both Paris and New York. She threw regular parties at the Château, primarily for the nobility, but also for her friends from the greater society, including Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.

In 1975, the couple bought the Hôtel Lambert on the Île Saint-Louis, one of Paris' most opulent residences, and moved in on the upper floors. The aristocratic Baron Alexis de Redé, who was a tenant on the first floor of Hôtel Lambert and would eventually become a fixture at her parties, became acquainted with Marie-Hélène. Marie-Hélène de Rothschild was awarded the Legion of Honor for her contributions to promoting French culture and fashion on a global scale.

Marie-Hélène at the Prix de Diane at the Hippodrome de Chantilly
on June 14, 1970, France

Portrait of Guy de Rothschild as he poses with his wife
Marie-Hélène and their son Edouard, France, April 22, 1961

Marie-Hélène arrives at the party in honor of newlyweds Michel Raimon and Evelyne de Beschart on May 24, 1970 in Saint-Tropez, France

Salvador Dali with Marie-Hélène at the premiere of 'Le Grand Jeu'
at the Lido in December 1973 in Paris, France

Marie-Hélène attends the performance of "Phedre" on October 14,
1968 at Gala Au Theatre De L'Opera in Paris, France

Marie-Hélène attend the Surrealist Ball of 1972 at Château de Ferrières, France

Marie-Hélène with Princess Grace of Monaco at Grand
Divertissement à Versailles, November 28, 1973

Dancer Rudolf Nureyev and Marie-Hélène at a party on March 14,
1985 in Paris, France

Guy and Marie-Hélène at Princess Caroline of Monaco's wedding in June 1978 in Monte-Carlo, Monaco

Marie-Hélène in Marbella, Spain, circa 1985

The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “Dinner with D.V.”

The year was 1987, and New York was in the midst of its "Nouvelle Society." The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Ar...